Guten Tag Meine Freunde!
150 years ago, my great-great-great grandparents left a town about 100 miles east of Berlin for a better life in the United States. Like a lot of Americans whose ancestors immigrated to this country, I never really gave much thought to where I came from. We're all about living in the present and moving on. When people asked where my family was from, my answer was always "Oregon."
Then I got invited to Germany last month to work with some outstanding German TV writers, producers and executives. And as I started packing, I started remembering. Hadn't my grandparents told me their parents spoke German? In fact, what's up with my last name -- Zabel -- isn't there a German bicyclist who spent years almost catching Lance Armstrong named Erik Zabel? Where was that book somebody had sent me years ago, something called "The Heritage of the Zabel Families in Germany & America"? Didn't it tell me that my grandfather who I always knew as John Zabel was actually Johannes?
So a casual trip to work with some other TV writers turned into something else for me. Not exactly a "roots tour" but something more than a one-week gig in a foreign country.
As it turns out, the Zabels that my family came from started out in the mixed German-Polish village of Doelitz which was in Pommerania, an area that is now just barely in Poland but has also been Prussia or Germany, depending on who's drawing the borders. It lies along the Baltic Sea, a land that is very flat and considered only suitable as average farmland. The area was devastated three times: by the 30 Year's War in the 1600s, by Frederick the Great in the 1700s, and by Napoleon in the 1800s. So it's really no mystery why so many Pommeranians decided to pack their bags and seek a new life elsewhere. Many headed for the United States. Mine did in 1856.
Okay, enough history lesson. My wife, Jackie, came with me on this latest trip and airline schedules dictated we fly into Munich instead of Berlin. So we never got to see where all these relatives came from but we definitely got closer than I've ever been before.
Anyway, Jackie and I decided to add a little touring to the front and back of the work assignment. We got to Munich a few days after Oktoberfest, toured around the various "must-see" sights, went into the Alps for a day, then trained up to Cologne for the German TV work, then a final day or so in Frankfurt.

The Hills Were Alive
Neuschwanstein Castle
By the way, check out that weather. It was like we were still in Southern California when we arrived. Warm, clear, perfect. The unfortunate but enjoyable Upside of Global Warming! So we took advantage and went touristing to the Olympic Park, castles, museums, beer gardens, farmer's markets. Most of the time it was shirtsleeve weather. It cooled off a little when we got to Cologne.
Anyway, to the best of my knowledge, we have left no international incidents in our wake, but on on our first night in Munich we almost started one. We got on a subway and when the doors closed we realized that virtually everyone else had just gotten off and we were the only passengers! At the next stop, we tried to get off, but the doors were locked! Then the train went into a dark tunnel and started to slow down. It was like the beginning to a horror film. I ended up pulling the emergency alarm and after a few minutes a man came back and told us to sit tight (well, actually, he said something else and it was in German and the way he shook his head made me suspect profanity was used). I guess the train was scheduled to turn around and everyone who takes the subway regularly knows this. It all turned out okay, but we definitely got smarter about things as we went on.
We actually liked the idea that for nearly two weeks we had no personal car and no need for one. We took the subway or a train everywhere we went, supplemented by a taxi here and there. It was a blast. We met a lot of locals that way and even a couple of Americans who were married to Germans who introduced themselves. The picture below is the closest I came to driving on the autobahn!

Outside the Olympic Park, Munich
Food-wise, Jackie loved all the pastries that are everywhere, and I liked the chance to start the morning with a bratwurst from a fast-food place. We also enjoyed getting hot chestnuts on the streets of Munich (which we initially surmised were round sausages!). Plus, I had an awesome goose dinner one night in Cologne. After I was done, a second plate was brought out with the rest of the goose that they'd been keeping hot until we were done with the first part of the meal. And, of course, the Germans know how to brew a fine glass of beer, so there's always that.There also seems to be a lot of smoking going on in Germany, it's like the default has been reversed from the U.S. where smokers are segregated.
The work was very fun, working for a company that facilitates interaction between U.S. writers and international clients. The idea here was to share some of the tricks of the trade the U.S.
television industry has learned in order to crank out orders of 22
episodes a season at a factory-like pace. More on that in future posts, I'd imagine. Let me just say that if anything is holding back German television it's not the energy, creativity or ideas of their writers but the structure of their system which doesn't allow them to work together often enough to achieve the greatness they're capable of. That seems to be changing. Everybody I met was extremely bright, talented and motivated to make a better product so the chances are they will, soon.
My bottom line is that Germany seems to be a place that is on the move -- intellectually, politically and even, it seems, in the world of TV and film. It works better than most European countries on many levels, the people I met were very friendly and warm, and it's a trip I'd be glad to have taken even if I didn't feel that family tree connection. Sehr gut.
Aufwiedersehen und bis bald!
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